[dropcap]S[/dropcap]omething’s wrong. It’s a new motor – how could this be happening? First you have to find out what the problem is, and then you have to fix it.
Not easy if you’re the kind of person whose tool kit contains only the plumber’s phone number and a credit card. But there are no plumbers (electricians, mechanics, or carpenters) at sea, so you’re stuck with you.
You either have lots of experience or are going to go through a lot of trial and error. Since the hit-and-miss method usually entails more missing than hitting, and honestly, you’re not all that experienced, read these tips – benefit of Boating’s combined centuries on the water.
OIL COOLER
A Boating Magazine image.
The Problem: You observe a faint oil slick in the cooling system’s expansion tank.
The Cause: A leak in the oil cooler.
The Fix: Remove the oil cooler and replace the bundles. If the old ones are repairable, have them pressure checked before reinstalling. Oil in the coolant will eventually cause overheating.
FLOAT SWITCH
Boating Magazine image.
The Problem: On the shakedown cruise with your new boat, the bilge pump runs continuously, but there’s no water below decks
The Cause: The float switch could be facing forward. It’s an improper installation
The Fix: The float switch should face aft. Otherwise, the running angle of the boat will cause the float switch to rise and activate the pump, even if there’s no water in the bilge.
CLAMPS / LEAK
The Problem: The transmission housing on your gas inboard is rapidly rusting away.
The Cause: Saltwater is spraying onto the housing from the stuffing box.
The Fix: A stuffing box must drip to cool the packing inside. Secure a short length of exhaust hose around the stuffing box with stainless-steel hose clamps to deflect the spray into the bilge and keep water off the transmission. Better yet, install a dripless stuffing box such as a Shaft Seal.
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