Fly fishermen flock to the exotic Pacific atoll for a chance to fight the elusive giant trevally
By Chris Santella
Aug. 21, 2015
[dropcap]L[/dropcap]ike elite foodies who are compelled to cross every three-star Michelin eatery off their bucket list, there exists a cadre of anglers who are drawn to the far corners of the earth in quest of exotic species. They’ll fly to Russia’s Kola Peninsula to catch Atlantic salmon, to the beaches of Baja Mexico to chase roosterfish, and to the jungles of Bolivia to battle newly discovered populations of golden dorado. Price is no object; a week on Russia’s Ponoi River will easily set an angler back $10,000. But the thrill of the chase—and the bragging rights after—make it worthwhile.
But fly fishing’s ultimate prize currently resides on Christmas Island, a coral atoll some 1,200 miles south of Hawaii and part of the nation of Kiribati. For several years, as rising waters brought on by climate change threaten the atoll, anglers have increasingly flocked here for chance to fight the giant trevally.
Silver-shaded with prominently forked tails and steeply slanted heads, GTs can eclipse 100 pounds, though 20 to 50 pound specimens are more common. They usually frequent deeper water, though at Christmas Island they will cruise the abundant shallow water flats in search of prey; it’s the unique opportunity to stalk GTs in the shallows that makes Christmas Island a much sought after venue. GTs will eat juvenile milkfish, mullet, bonefish and anything else they can hunt down. There are anecdotes of large GTs attacking frigate birds—which have six-foot wingspans—that were unfortunate enough to cross paths with them.
This aggressiveness is part of the GT’s mystique. “GTs can move incredibly fast while stalking the flats,” said Dylan Rose, a travel specialist with Fly Water Travel, which books anglers into Christmas Island. “It’s an amazing spectacle to see a 60-pound fish marauding bait in skinny water with a foot of its back sticking out, even more amazing to watch one chase the fly right to your feet. If they take the fly, there’s a sense of shock and awe as the GT’s power is unparalleled. You feel like your tackle is incredibly inadequate for the task at hand.”
Silver-shaded with prominently forked tails and steeply slanted heads, GTs can eclipse 100 pounds, though 20 to 50 pound specimens are more common. They usually frequent deeper water, though at Christmas Island they will cruise the abundant shallow water flats in search of prey; it’s the unique opportunity to stalk GTs in the shallows that makes Christmas Island a much sought after venue. GTs will eat juvenile milkfish, mullet, bonefish and anything else they can hunt down. There are anecdotes of large GTs attacking frigate birds—which have six-foot wingspans—that were unfortunate enough to cross paths with them.
This aggressiveness is part of the GT’s mystique. “GTs can move incredibly fast while stalking the flats,” said Dylan Rose, a travel specialist with Fly Water Travel, which books anglers into Christmas Island. “It’s an amazing spectacle to see a 60-pound fish marauding bait in skinny water with a foot of its back sticking out, even more amazing to watch one chase the fly right to your feet. If they take the fly, there’s a sense of shock and awe as the GT’s power is unparalleled. You feel like your tackle is incredibly inadequate for the task at hand.”
This is saying something, as the heavy rods favored for GTs more resemble telephone poles than dainty Catskill trout rods, and the flies are as large as many upstate trout
It is a point of pride among fly anglers to pursue their quarry in the most sporting manner possible; a fish in hand may not earn bragging rights so much as how that fish came to hand. The “purest” method of engagement for anglers pursuing GTs is to walk the flats, ready to cast the moment fish appear. Ideally, the angler will land the six to 10-inch fly, tied to resemble a baitfish, 10 or more feet in front of the fish; this way, the fly will pass in front of the fish as the angler retrieves the line. The fish may take the fly instantly, follow it a bit and then take, or ignore it. If the GT grabs the fly, hold on—bigger specimens have been known to peel off one or two football fields’ worth of line in their first run.
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